DCC 130 Replace belt and broken/missing Switch lever

Working on my first restore i run into a very big issue unfortunately.

First of all i removed the old belt and replaced it with the new belt.
Than i saw that it looks like the capacitors are leaking (see photo’s)

Finally i run into another problem that my “Switch lever” was missing (see photo)
It is broken or there was already some restoration done (it was suspicious that I was already missing a screw when removing the board) on this DCC 130 because i couldn’t find any “switch” that was broken or came loose. (i saw it when i tried to allign the switch with the mechanism.
I looked very carefully on the DCC 130 video were it is stated that you have to look very carefully that the “switch lever” and the Mechanism lever" should always be alligned.

I think i have a big problem now.
Is there a way to restore this broken switch or do i have to look at another DCC 130 and start the project all over?
I hope there is a way to solve this issue but it don’t think it will be the case.
Thanks in advance for helping out.

The switch can be replaced. This one seems to be the same part number. Otherwise we have one as well from a donor.

The capacitors would need to be replaced as well.

Thank you for your quick response Ralf. Very much appreaciated. :wink:
How can i replace it? Is there some instruction somewhere?
This is not a record switch like on the 170 but can can i still use the same part as in the other topic?
Do you think i need to replace the capacitors preventively or are they leaking as i stated and is it visible on the photo? I first like to only replace the belt and afterwards maybe the Capacitors if in run into other issues. I hope that i can first try this.

And one final question. Did i replaced the belt the correct way?
I think so.
And i am fortunated i have another 130 which i will try later on. I hope that i will run into less problems.

There is no video available.
Replacing it is simply removing and replace via hot air or desoldering.

The part seems the same as the 170

Capacitor replacement is a must.

The belt looks ok.

Okay clear. What can i expect if i only replace the belt and not the capacitors?
I do not have the capacitors in house so i first want to do a test with only belt replacement.

Expect audio problems. The belt only is not making sense as the unit is already open.

You are right but i do not have the capacitors and i am a soldering rookie, so i first want to test this and than see what the outcome is, and replace the capacitors.
On the other hand the video on the beach were you replaced only the belt did for the DCC 130 also did not replaced the belt. Or is this just a little bit of joking how easy it is to replace the belt. :slightly_smiling_face:

That video was made when we did not know any better…
The past year has learned us, that now all these capacitors on the DCC130 started failing.

Okay. I can imagine.
Now i tried to start the other DCC 130 .
It doesn’t do anything at all :sleepy:. No motor sound, no display. Nothing.
What can be the case? Or is it just related to the failing capacitors?

Could be a fuse. On the right hand side (look from above) on the first board, next to the power connector (5.5v), there is a fuse (white). Check it.

Good news for now.
I replaced the first board from the DCC 130, which was completely faulty with the other one, and now it does work. (see picture) So i think indeed it is a fuse issue on that motherboard.
For sure i know that what you tell me is right. Please replace the capacitors ! I will do that.
First i have to take some soldering lessons! :blush:

Do you have some good advice for me which desolderling and soldering device i can use.
I have done it in the past (school) but that’s more than 20 plus years ago. ( i am from the Netherlands by the way)

Any other things you advice me to do to be sure i have pleasure for a long time of this device?

If you look at our videos (look at our Technics RSDC10 recap on YouTubue), you can see that i might not be wise to start with a project like this without the right equipment.

I prefer removing the old caps with a hot air tool, but you need to be very carefull.


You are totally right. But you have to start somewhere. I think you also learned with the years. :wink:
But there a is also a thing like budget. And don’t waste money, go step by step is also a good way forward.
But now i “restored” this player it feels like i wanna go further.
Do you advice a hot air tool that is available for a low in budget but does the thing?
Maybe there are other forum members that can advice me.

Fortunately i already listening to the player for over half an hour and no audio issues right now.
But via the headphone jack the audio is not very loud, that also looks not promising (Capacitors)

By the way, the cover for the capstan near the motor is missing too in the first picture, in case you didn’t notice. Both capstans should have an identical cover to hold it in place.


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Wel noticed Jac. This was only during the installation of the belt. I placed it back afterwards. I wanted to see if the belt was moving fine. I followed the exact steps of the video from Ralf at the beach. :wink:

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After some good listening sessions i haven’t go any issues with the Philips DCC 130 via the line-out.
But as already mentioned there should be issues with the headphones output. Ofcourse i should listen to you guys. :zipper_mouth_face:

Fortunately all issues will be solved with replacing the SMD capacitors.
All other parts, capstans, motor, head etc… are perfectly fine. :slightly_smiling_face:
Can you tell me if i need to replace all capacitors on both boards. (see photo’s)
There is also one capacitor on the other board (also replace this one?)

Can those capacitors be send from the Netherlands because i am from the Netherlands or is everything shipped only from america?
I need some other things like a gear for the DCC 951, Batteries etc…

Both boards indeed, but the second board has only one capacitor. We only have them available in the USA but maybe you can buy them locally.


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