Hi,
Yes, the dcc museum is selling both versions (DCC130 and DCC170).
Ralf
Great Job
Hi, great Job to keep the DCC alive.
I was attracted initially by the DrDCC Youtube video mentioning (and showing) a battery replacement for the DCC130 (I own still the DCC130/00) which I bought long time ago in the Philips Personalverkauf (Employers Shop) - shortly after having bought a DCC600.
For the DCC130 I throw away the battery case some years ago as the battery was leaking. So I was happy to see the STL files offerred to print them by myself.
Now ā¦ sorry I see only the case for the DCC134 and up. Or am I blind? Help needed. If I can make the DCC130 work again, probably I start on the DCC600 and my other Philips HiFi equipment for a Retro ('90) Setup. Will be fun. Because the Caroussel Player (775) and the Receiver (751) still work nicely.
Carry on and CU
Thorsten
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Thanks and welcome,
There is Currently not a file available for the 130 battery.
We do have the 130 chassis available for you from older batteries if you are interested. You Could use it or design A new chassis from there.
We also have the 18650 battery for the 130 that can be charged via usb.
Ralf
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Hi, thanks for the welcome.
I checked the battery compartment of the DCC130, quite large, just + and - connection. So I think that with help of the parts of a 18650 holder (the spring parts - or maybe the full case) and some electronics:
- USB to LiPo Loader with protection ā TP4056 Micro USB 5V/1A Lithium Batterie Charger Modul
- LiPo to DCC using a StepUp Buck Converter with MT3608 chip (cheap, adjustable, Vin = 2-24V, Vout = 2 - 28V, maybe that the power is a bit weak, canāt find something about the [email protected] of the DCC130)
plus design for 3D printer,
I may do something. I will try. Letās see. (next step for me ist to find the original ACDC adapter to check whether all this makes sense).
Maybe that the circuitry was published. I found only the LiPo loader circuitry attached to the Youtube (specād as Vin = 5V, Vout = 5V ā which is not matching the original 4.8V of the battery - or is the DCC130 tolerant there?).
Any experience on that? Thankful for an answerā¦ and best wishes
Thorsten
P.S If I donāt have successā¦ How to get an battery chassis? (Thabk you)
Hi,
You can contact us a [email protected]
We can provide any part to patrons of the dccmuseum asap.
We also have the original charger and adapter if needed.
Ralf
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The battery is 4.8V because it consists of four NiCd cells, and the nominal cell voltage of a NiCd is 1.2V. 1.2 x 4 = 4.8. 
The additional two-tenths of a volt from a 5V power supply isnāt going to bother anything ā in fact, the power supply / battery charger unit puts out 5.5V through the DC power cord anyway, and the DCC130 itself has an onboard regulator and DC-to-DC converter circuit to generate the correct operating voltages for the rest of the system.
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Where can I get the more up to date stl file for the DCC170?
The one linked in is just the shell for gumstick batteries.
Iām looking for the one shown in the video that takes a single 18650?
I want to print one using my Prusa Mini
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Hi,
We do not own that stl file and the original owner is not yet willing to share unfortunately.
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Is the owner on the forum?
Would he or she be willing to contact me?
Iād be more than happy to NDA in order to make myself a print
without hurting this personās rights.
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They are not. It is a commercial party and they would not share the file.
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That sux.
Well Iāll try if I can load the stil into Fusion or
simply measure my original batteries.
Probably Iāll need to salvage contacts etc from them.
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Just found it on thingverse:
I hope @Philip_de_lang does not mind me posting it, itās his work not mine!
If he minds, Iāll remove it
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I do not mind, it is open source.
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OK. I thought so, but I donāt want to speak before my turn.
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For anyone whoās interested, I received 6 bags of battery terminals.
thatās about 25 sets per bagā¦ way tooo many
ANyone needing them?
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Nice! Iāll try out this 18650 bracket solution. Thanks for sharing the design and parts list @Philip_de_Lang ! However I was wondering how this solution behaves when this battery solution is in the portable DCC player while the power adapter is connected as well. The DC-DC boost module is not a charger circuit, but when the power adapter is attached to the portable DCC player, it will try to charge the battery through the boost modules output pins. Not sure if this will either destroy the DC-DC boost module, or worse, the charging circuit in the portable DCC player.
So I was thinking about improving this design with the possibility to charge the 18650 battery as well. The only issue here is that existing 5V charging and boost module board (like this) have separate connections for charging as for connecting the load. And this is a challenge because the original battery only has 1 set of pins for both charging and load. Does anybody have any suggestions for a boost/charger circuit that can have the charger and load connected to the same pins?
I do not think charging the battery while inside the player with the power adapter will work. I designed the bracket so that the 18650 battery can be removed from the player while the bracket remains in the player. There are many cheap external 18650 chargers available that can even charge multiple batteries at the same time.
Of course charging the battery inside the player should be theoretically possible, if the circuit board of the bracket is designed for this use. I do not know if those circuit boards are available and if so, if they fit inside the bracket.
Youāre right. Itās not so much an issue of being able to charge the 18650 battery. I have charger to do that.
The bigger question however is, is there any risk in having the battery in while it is connected to mains (via the adapter)? Because the DCC player will try to charge something that is not made to be charged.
I really donāt trust myself that I remember to take out the battery (or even the bracket) when itās connected to mains.
Hi,
The DCC portables will not charge the battery when just connected to the mains.
Charging only happens after your turn off the player by pressing stop. After that you would have to press stop again and charging appears in the display. The new battery is not equipped to handle this, but we never seen any problems as you would have to manually press stop 2x before this happens.