Repairing and Upgrading my DCC170

So last week i stumbled upon this DCC170 complete in box at a thrift store.
Even including a tape and a 1997 receipt from the Philips “personeelswinkel” in Doetinchem.

Once i was home took the battery out and tried powering it up with the AC adapter, power up seemed fine did even hear the motor but to be suspected the belt has gone.

So after ordering a new belt i decided it was time to look into replacing the original battery.
After gutting it i found that a 18650 Lithium-Ion battery cell would fit almost perfect, this got me thinking in about a way to get a 18650 to work in a original battery case. This would have the effect of greatly improving the battery life.

Firstly i will focus on getting the new belt on and making sure the player works before diving in the Lithium hole :sweat_smile:


Great find! May I ask how much did you pay?

They marked it as untested so i paid 10 euro’s.

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Untested on the internet is like 10 times as expensive, congratulations!

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Hi, What a good find. We are already producing 3d printed batteries on the 18650.
Works very well. Also for the DCC130.!
Video on it later this year.

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And here i am reinventing the wheel, haha.

Look like we have gone for the same idea of basically make a USB Power bank fit inside the case. Does it also charge over micro usb?
I was trying to think of a way to make the original AC adapter also make charge the batterypack when inside the player, but havent come that far yet…

Is your batterypack available yet?

Hi, great minds think alike lol.

Both of them charge via micro usb outside the player.

For the dcc130 and Panasonic portables you can even switch the 18650 battery as it is spring loaded. This design solves the problem that a lot of external chargers of the first generation portables are lost or broken.
They are already available for patrons of the dccmuseum.

[email protected] for more info.


Finally a good reason for me to join Patreon then.
I will reach out to you soon!



The new belt came in the mail today, so i had to put it on the machine to see if it would play.

But sadly on ACC im only getting hiss and it will not read DCC, i do hear beeps when i press buttons so i would guess the amplifier is fine.

Time to get the service manual out i guess.


I really hope someone did not try and demagnetize the head before you.
Have you tried and go into service mode and see what the tracks are telling you?

Have you double checked the flat cables from the head to the read-write board. Sometimes the cable is not completely inside the connector after replacing the belt.

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I did check all the cables a few times. Really hoping no one tried demagnitizing it…
Going to give the service mode a shot tomorrow

Getting the player into service mode showed the heads where not giving any signals…

So i took the PCB’s back out of the machine again and when i did i accidentally broke and dropped ic Q119. Taking a closer look it seemed that the solder joints where bad before i nudged the small IC off…
This IC is responsible for converting 3.2v into 3v for the read/write head. It would explain why i didnt get any signal!

Since the old IC had vanished on the floor and i could only find this RN5RG30A IC in china i temporarily bypassed it sending the 3.2v to the head instead of the 3v. And there was music!

Playing on both ACC and DCC :smiley:

I wont use it much now since the head is getting 0.2 volts more than it should, but it confirmed the IC being bad/loose.



Congratulations. Personally, I would not look for the same part, but try to fit in an appropriate current linear regulator with an internal power transistor to protect the head as good as possible. Parts from China are often refurbished with a fake new print and can fail again or are entirely something else. Or ask @drdcc for a chip from a donor, he may have one.

Great job locating the problem. I agree with @Max to repair it with the original part.

Ill be doing some research on this.

The read/write amplifier controls the sense current going through the head. so a easier available 3v regulator will do the trick as well and cut out the separate power transistor as long as i can vind a replacement ic that can supply the current.

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Yes, I just advise against finding that exact replacement in China, either get it from @drdcc or like this.

If you can send me a picture of the location (makes it easier) of the part, then I am sure we can get you a spare part from one of our part boards.

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If i cant find a modern replacement i will get back to you, i dont want to exhaust the spare parts from the museum if i dont really have to :slight_smile:

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These look very nice. I thought about a 18650 case for the DCC 170 too, came up with a different approach: leaving the 18650 exposed. The 3d printed part + electronics will then stay in the device. If a battery is empty, you can take it out, put a new one in and recharge the empty battery in a generic usb 18650 charger.

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That sound like a great idea, being able to change your battery on the fly!

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