I have had a DCC170 for more than 25 years. It has very little use and has been unused for more than 15 years. Six years ago I had to change the belt (0.8/64mm) and it worked correctly again. But a week ago I wanted to recharge the battery but I found that it was not working well. Powered externally and with a DCC tape inside, when you press PLAY, “POWER ON” appears on the screen, the motor and pulley rotate in one direction for one second, the PLAY screen appears, the motor rotates in the opposite direction for one second more and the “POWER OFF” screen appears. The belt was fine though, but I changed it again (0.6/67mm) and checked the proper functioning of the auto-reverse gears and black switch, and the actuation of the electromagnet for “FWD” and “REW”, even with a tape inside. I have lightly grased those parts. But when I put it back together the same problem appears again. The capacitors don’t seem to be leaking, and the switches seem fine. Has anyone solved this problem?
Hi and welcome,
It could be the engine, but for sure, the belt 0,6/67 is most likely, never going to work.
All replacement belts we found, with a 0,6mm will not work on the long run.
We currently use 0,7mm.
The 0,8 should work fine and if the player will not turn on, it could be the engine or a problem with a optical sensor, that indicates that the player is running.
Both sensors are places above the wheels colored silver/black on board 1. They are easy to find.
Thanks for your answer.
You have to take into account my description of the problem.
The problem is the same with the 0.8/64 belt and with the 0.6/67.
The motor and pulley rotate in both directions during testing.
POWER ON appears on the screen, then the PLAY screen and after 2 seconds POWER OFF and it turns off.
This means that it is not the belt, nor the motor.
The device has degenerated in six years without use.
I’ll look at the optical gyro sensors in case they are dirty. The rubbery coating gives off gases over time that make everything dirty.
Thanks.
Hi Biogon,
I don’t know if you’ve solved the problem yet, but we just discovered that this problem is caused by a leaking capacitor on the PCB. It corrodes a track, causing part of the internal power supply to fail.
You can read all about this here:
Hello Henrie, I tried it with one of the failing 170 players but it didn’t solve the problem. Maybe this particular player has another issue besides this.
Hello Roel,
Thanks for the update, I’m sorry to hear it didn’t work for you.
The issue stays the same, so most likely the cause lies in the same area. Maybe there’s another open track on your board. Or corroded resistor.
This kind of problems can best be investigated by a skilled person in electronics repair on chip level.
Hello Henrie.
Thank you very much for the information. After replacing all the electrolytic capacitors and measuring the supply voltages according to the manual, I began to suspect that some track was corroded by the acid in the capacitor´s area, but I temporarily abandoned the issue to repair a Marantz receiver.
After reading your email, I carefully reviewed the issue and the pics I took of the PCB. Indeed, the metalized drill under the C306 did not provide continuity. I soldered a small cable to the +4.8V of the QU02, reconnected the PCB, and it starts up fine!
I am attaching some pics of its condition in 2018, when I changed the belt and it worked fine, and the current ones of the repair, in case anyone is interested. Thank you very much and best regards!
