DCC newbie restoring a Technics RS-DC10

Recorders, Players, etc.
#1

Hi everyone, I am new to DCC, but I have restored some vintage electronics before (self-taught amateur)

I have a Technics RS-DC10 on the way in the mail, so I don’t yet know too much about its condition. Seller claims it works with analog tapes, untested with digital tapes. Been in storage for a long time.

I understand that the capacitors definitely need to be replaced right away. Does anyone have a list of which capacitor values I need; so I can order them and have them at the ready when my player arrives? Thanks!

#2

Hi and welcome.

These are the values for the capacitors.

2,2µF/35V/BP - 1 - Nichicon UMP1V2R2MDD
4,7µF/16V/BP - 2 - Nichicon UMP1C4R7MDD
10µF/16V - 9 - Nichicon UMV1C100MFD
22µF/6V3 - 1 - Nichicon UMV0J220MFD
68µF/10V - 4 - Panasonic EEA-GA1A680

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#3

Do you have access to a hot-air desoldering station for surface-mount components? If not, then be extremely careful when removing the old capacitors. The circuit traces on those boards are very thin, and the crud that comes out of those leaky surface-mount caps just loves to get underneath the conformal coating and eat away the traces, or undermine the pads so that they’ll lift off and break away at the slightest stress.

(Also, note that the part #s drdcc gave above are for the through-hole equivalent capacitors, not the surface-mount ones.)

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#4

Cool; thanks! I do have a soldering station with a hot air thingy. Thanks for the tip; I will try to be careful so as to not tear off the circuit board traces.

Some sellers have so-called “hi-fi audio” capacitors. Does this actually matter, or is it just snake oil?

#5

No, but quality does help to prevent fails in the future, so don’t try to save some money by buying some random Chinese ones, the Japanese manufacturers are all decent nowadays but have different product lines each, just check what makes sense for you also in terms of shipping cost. It may seem oversimplified, but I don’t know of any non-Japanese high quality mainstream capacitor manufacturers.

#6

I use a similar technique to remove SMS caps, no hot air gun required:

#7

To be honest, this seems risky to me regarding ripping of pads and replacing electrolytic capacitors with some other style of capacitor is not a wise choice unless you really understand the circuit in detail.

#8

I find it too and use a slightly different mechanical removal method: I cut and pull carefully the aluminium cylinder with the rest, than desolder two remaining stripes from the board with the wick. This method is very quick and proven to be gentle to conductors

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#9

That is very interesting. Thanks from sharing.
I would like to discourage any first timers to cut the smd capacitors.

It will surely ruin the boards. The acid makes it vey brittle.

Slawa is a pro, but removing smd capacitors from a first gen dcc player is not easy.

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#10

Probably the board used in Mr. Carlson’s demonstration video is al lot more robust than the boards in the DCC.

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